Tag: cooking

  • The 11 Best Meal Kit Delivery Services We’ve Tested (2024)

    The 11 Best Meal Kit Delivery Services We’ve Tested (2024)

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    PRICE: Despite any marketing claims to the contrary meal kits cost more than buying groceries. However, they usually cost less than take-out and are healthier. If you want to gauge whether the trade-off is worth it the good news is that much like mattress-in-a-box companies, meal kit companies usually have some running promotions. Most meal kit pricing models offer bulk discounts: The more meals you purchase per week, the lower each serving’s price will be. We go into detail on dietary restrictions and subscription costs below. If you ever want to skip a week or cancel, you can find that information in the account section on your chosen service’s website.

    WIRED: Meal kits are convenient; I didn’t have to worry about planning dinner or panic-eating junk food after forgetting to eat a proper meal during the day. Learning to cook with one of these services can instill confidence and impart basic knowledge. If you’re busy, or can’t be bothered, meal kits may be just what you need to get cookin’, and cooking at home is never a bad thing. Meal kits may be right for you if you’re cooking for a small household, if you work nontraditional hours, if you hate figuring out what to make for dinner, if you want to stop ordering out all the time, or if you are trying to develop your cooking skills.

    TIRED: Nothing beats learning how to cook the old-fashioned way, so be sure to try that, too. It’s cheaper and you learn more if you pick out fruit yourself or break down a whole chicken for $5. You simply don’t get that experience if everything arrives at your door and the chicken parts come prepackaged. Planning and shopping is an integral part of the art of cooking. Meal kits are also generally more wasteful than traditional home cooking, and often more expensive. Meal kits may be the wrong choice for you if you are on a tight budget, if you’re cooking for a large household, or if you want tighter control over the specific ingredients you’ll be using.

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  • Electric Grilling Is Still a Little Raw in the Middle

    Electric Grilling Is Still a Little Raw in the Middle

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    I left the Current where it was and made a loop around the exterior of the house, frequently doubling back to the main breaker box to see which outlets were connected to beefy-enough breakers and found a plug on the side of the house that gets extra hot at the end of the day, aka grilling time. I wheeled the grill noisily down to it.

    At this point I started texting with my Seattle electrician, Will Gebenini, to figure out how likely it would be that other people with porches and plugs and breaker boxes would have similar issues.

    “Well, it’s almost 100 percent likely that they’ll have a 15-amp outlet if the construction is newer build,” he said, “but it’s very hard to predict if the outlet will be on a 15- or 20-amp circuit. Newer codes require an outlet on patios/decks. No code specifies the ampacity of that circuit.”

    “So,” I asked, “it’s a crapshoot whether or not your porch will have the right setup?”

    “Correct.”

    Since you can’t just swap breakers around willy-nilly, this means you might not be able to put a grill like this in the spot you want it, or you might need to call someone like Will to make it happen, at which point your new electric grill goes from expensive to very expensive.

    Advanced Degrees

    I fired up the Current again, threw those sausages on there again, and it felt like they came out fine, but I had a lot to pay attention to. There is a digital readout on the grill and a bit of a touchscreen, as well as a single knob. (Yay knobs!) There are two grilling zones, so you can also set the temperature for each side of the grill and do a little sizzle sizzle on one side and a little coasting to the finish on the other.

    There’s the to-the-degree cooking feature, and that mobile app that connects your phone to the grill—and normally I’d tell you more, but problems started blooming like wildflowers, stealing all of my attention.

    Even by moving the grill somewhere inconvenient to meet its electrical needs, heating it up took a long time. Impressively, you can set both sides to heat up to 700 degrees Fahrenheit. Yet on a hot summer’s day in New England, I turned the right burner up to 600 degrees, and after 20 minutes it had barely cleared 450. Even with more patience, it struggled to hit those higher temperatures, and turning it up or down a few notches lacked a propane grill’s nimble responsiveness.

    The big problem here is that the larger the grilling surface is on an electric grill, the harder it is to get enough juice to it. On a propane grill, you just turn on another burner. On charcoal, you can add coals or increase airflow. On electric at this size or larger, you can cheat a little, but unless you want to hard-wire it and do some electrical work, you’re mostly just stuck with how it’s designed.

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  • Give In to Temperature-Controlling Tech and Unlock a New Kitchen Zen

    Give In to Temperature-Controlling Tech and Unlock a New Kitchen Zen

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    Recent advances in countertop induction burners give home cooks more control over their meals, freeing up their minds to get creative in other ways.

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  • Fellow Tally Pro Precision Scale Review: A High-Quality Machine for True Coffee Nerds

    Fellow Tally Pro Precision Scale Review: A High-Quality Machine for True Coffee Nerds

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    To make sure the Tally Pro was as useful as I thought, I brought it to Diego Espinoza, retail director at Café Brújula in Oaxaca City, Mexico. The company’s cafés around town feature beans from many small producers, and I learned that recipes and ratios for each type of bean are created by a three-barista team.

    I handed the scale to Espinoza, showing him the timer and scale functions, and noted how his eyes widened a bit when I showed him the brew assist function. To start, he pulled out a container of Brújula’s Maestros beans from producer Eva Gonzalez in Santa Cruz Acatepec. He began by grinding the beans on an Estrella hand grinder, a favorite of his even though there’s a pro-level electric grinder on the opposite side of the espresso machine.

    Pulling a Chemex carafe down from a shelf, he set the ratio on the Fellow to 1:16 and weighted out 19 grams of grounds, at which point the screen displayed that we’d want 304 grams of water.

    “Having the scale and timer readouts right next to each other is very useful,” he noted, before pausing to appreciate how the timer started with the first drop of water. “Normally, you start the timer and start pouring and they’re always a second or two off.”

    I watched him get the hang of it and by the third batch of coffee, he was wholly proficient, the scale’s intuitiveness clearly helping him brew.

    Together, he and I also figured out how to reverse engineer the machine to brew to a specific volume—like your favorite mug—something you could do with normal scale and a calculator, but was simplified using the Fellow.

    “If you have your favorite cup, you can brew to that,” noted Espinosa. “My girlfriend loves using a huge cup.”

    Fancy but Functional

    Together, we considered how the Tally Pro compares to some of its notable competition. At Café Brújulas’ roastery, they use a Hario scale that combines the weight and time on one screen, but the features function wholly independent of one another, meaning the timer doesn’t start automatically when you begin pouring. The Hario’s scale is also far less sensitive.

    “With the Hario, you can’t measure a single bean. The Fellow can,” Espinosa noted with surprise. Yet the Hario or other great kitchen scales cost about a third as much, a ratio that does not work out in the Fellow’s favor. On the other end of the spectrum, Acacia’s Pearl costs $150 and while it doesn’t do the ratio thing, it helps you pour at a specific speed, aka the “flow rate”—something pour-over people appreciate.

    Finally, Espinoza and I puzzled out the Fellow target audience for the Tally Pro. While something like the Acacia might be better for baristas who make the same set of drinks over and over, he liked the Tally Pro for people like Brújula’s recipe development team members.

    “They are always adjusting. This would save them some time,” he said. “At home, it would be good for someone who likes to have friends over and make different cup sizes of different coffees. It could also be great for people with coffee subscriptions, who are always getting different kinds of beans.”

    “If you always have the same coffee with the same recipe, you don’t need this. It’s too much information,” said Espinoza. “This is for coffee explorers.”

    Beyond that, I really admired its wonderfully solid build. Even though it might be described as the love child of a record player crossed with a Roomba, it’s somehow still quite good-looking, both simple and understated. The readout doesn’t flutter like lesser scales sometimes do. We both really liked the ratio calculator, something that will always be useful. Plus, the more you use it, the more impressive and useful the intuitiveness becomes. With its scale and timer integration combined with a very pared-down interface, it’s always ready for the next step, meaning making great coffee becomes faster and easier.

    I asked Espinoza if he’d buy it for himself, and that seemed to depend on how much spare cash he might have on hand on some theoretical date in the future.

    “However,” he countered, “it would make a great gift for me.”

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  • Our 9 Favorite Pizza Ovens: Wood, Gas, and Electric (2024)

    Our 9 Favorite Pizza Ovens: Wood, Gas, and Electric (2024)

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    There’s a reason why pizza is the menu choice of picky preschoolers, hungry teenagers, and discerning foodies alike. Homemade pizzas are a complete meal. They’re irresistible, easy to make, and customizable for a wide range of dietary preferences. Until recently, an aspiring pizzaiolo had no choice but to crank up their kitchen oven to the standard 450 degrees Fahrenheit. Now there’s a wide variety of home pizza ovens that can heat up as high as 900 degrees Fahrenheit—the perfect temperature for making a crisp Neapolitan pizza in minutes.

    I test pizza ovens over the course of a few weeks, using homemade dough (I like Ooni’s classic pizza dough recipe), store-bought fresh dough, and frozen pizzas. I also use an infrared thermometer to make sure the temperature of the cooking surface is consistent (and is what the built-in thermometer says it is). Pizza ovens are also quite a bit more versatile than you might think—I also use them to sear steaks, quick-cook salmon, and pan-fry broccoli. These are my favorites. For those with limited access to outdoor spaces, I’ve included indoor options and an oven that fits on a small deck, balcony, or patio.

    Be sure to check out our many other buying guides, including the Best Portable Grills, Best Grills, and Best Camping Stoves.

    Updated August 2024: We added the Solo Stove Pi Prime, the Breeo Live Fire Pizza Oven, the Ninja Woodfire Outdoor Oven, the Ooni Koda 2 Max, and the Piezano.

    Power up with unlimited access to WIRED. Get best-in-class reporting that’s too important to ignore for just $2.50 $1 per month for 1 year. Includes unlimited digital access and exclusive subscriber-only content. Subscribe Today.

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  • HexClad Cookware Review: Unjustifiably Expensive

    HexClad Cookware Review: Unjustifiably Expensive

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    The first time I used the HexClad Hybrid Deep Saute Pan, I burned myself on the “Stay Cool” handle (more on that later). I seasoned the pan with oil per the manufacturer’s recommendations, I cooked some eggs, and they turned out mostly OK—but they stuck to the pan that’s marketed as “nonstick.” This led me down the path of minor inconveniences that culminated in one conclusion: HexClad cookware is like, fine, I guess. But the hybrid technology combining stainless steel and nonstick cookware isn’t all that impactful except in the bad ways, and you should just get a good stainless pan and a good nonstick pan instead.

    First Impressions

    Two silver cookware pans side by side on a black speckled countertop

    Photograph: Louryn Strampe

    When I’m testing gear, I have a rule for myself: Go in with fresh eyes. That means, as much as possible, I avoid other opinions from people—professional reviewers, friends, my pets, et cetera. I was already skeptical of HexClad due to the marketing around it, and my experience cooking on it solidified my hunch. You know when you’re shopping on Amazon and you choose to purchase gift wrap and the items arrive inside a weirdly tacky fabric bag? That’s what the HexClad pans are wrapped in (inside their boxes) upon arrival. It’s minor, but it rubbed me the wrong way. It reminded me of staying at a really nice hotel, only to discover that the sheets have a thread count of seven and the toilet paper is transparent. And then I started cooking on them. Cookware coated with polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE), or Teflon, is generally thought to be safe, but if it’s damaged or heated past 500 degrees Fahrenheit, it can be harmful to your health. I tried to scrape the surface of the pan with a fork, and it didn’t flake or scratch. That’s a good thing! But on the flip side, due to the hexagonal pattern on the pan’s interior surface, I don’t know that I would see small scratches or chips as easily as I would on a fully nonstick-coated pan. You know what kind of cookware doesn’t have these problems? Carbon steel and cast iron. You know what doesn’t cost $179? Our favorite nonstick pan.

    The $179 12-inch Hybrid Fry Pan is fine. It heated evenly and quickly, just a tad slower than my All-Clad comparison. The same is true for the $179 3.3-quart Hybrid Deep Saute Pan. But when these prices are comparable to All-Clad, which I (and many chefs) consider to be the standard, they’d better work just as well, and in my experience that just wasn’t the case. During my month of testing, I cooked stovetop pasta, eggs, and steak twice in each pan.

    Hand holding up a silver pan with a door and shelf of other pans in the background

    Photograph: Louryn Strampe

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  • The Best Instant Coffees (2024): Tested and Reviewed

    The Best Instant Coffees (2024): Tested and Reviewed

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    There is no coffee preparation method more widely maligned than instant coffee. Even its name conjures up memories of bitter, acrid coffee that tastes too thin and too thick all at once. It’s the province of motel lobbies, red-eye flights, and 5 am commutes. But it’s also one of the most popular ways to drink coffee.

    There’s more to the world of instant coffee than a packet of Folgers crystals dissolving at the bottom of a Styrofoam cup. About half the world even prefers it to other coffee preparation methods, and there’s a good reason for that: Most of the world is getting pretty good instant coffee. Indonesia, Japan, China, Mexico, Colombia, and Cuba all have instant coffee products on their shelves that can seriously rival the rich, flavorful brew you get from fresh beans. So, to find out which of these crystals actually gives your fresh-roasted, home-ground coffee a run for its money, I’ve been drinking my way across the world to find the best instant coffees.

    Be sure to check our other coffee guides, including the Best Espresso Machines, Best Cold-Brew Coffee Makers, Best Coffee Grinders, Best French Presses, and Best Electric Kettles.

    Power up with unlimited access to WIRED. Get best-in-class reporting that’s too important to ignore for just $2.50 $1 per month for 1 year. Includes unlimited digital access and exclusive subscriber-only content. Subscribe Today.

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    What Is “Good” Instant Coffee?

    You will always get more depth and breadth of flavor out of a cup of coffee ground and brewed fresh, the same way a loose-leaf tea will be more flavorful than even the most thoughtfully prepared tea bags. But when testing instant coffees, I wasn’t looking for coffees that reproduced the fresh-brewed flavor profile or drinking experience. That’s a trap coffee lovers fall into when drinking instant coffee. It’s a different medium than fresh-brewed coffee—like comparing a watercolor to an oil painting. Each has things it does well, but they don’t both do the same things well.

    The coffees on this list each provided memorable and enjoyable drinking experiences. Instant coffees that are made well shine a spotlight on a coffee’s fruity flavor notes, tartness, and roasty warm flavors like cinnamon and caramel. It can be difficult to find whole-bean coffees that produce these flavors when freshly roasted. Instant coffees that don’t try to be something else are, in my experience, the best-tasting. The ones trying too hard to replicate the fresh-roast experience are what end up tasting weak, too astringent, and full of off flavors. They’re pale imitations because they’re exactly that: imitations.

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  • We Tried HelloFresh and It Was Easy and Delicious

    We Tried HelloFresh and It Was Easy and Delicious

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    Cooking is complicated. Even when you’re a good cook! I’ve had the luxury of testing meal kit subscriptions, and HelloFresh is one of the most popular (which is why it’s getting its own review). I’d consider HelloFresh and Blue Apron to be the two “blueprints” for other meal kit services. They’re both generally well-rounded and accessible. HelloFresh instructions are detailed, and the resulting dishes are delicious. It’s a very solid service—provided you’re the kind of person who would even like meal kits in the first place.

    HelloFresh plans start at $10 per serving. Plans start at $57 per week for two meals with two servings each and range all the way up to $240 for six meals with four servings each. As with most meal kit services, there are almost always introductory promotions, so you can try it out for cheaper if you’d like. You can skip, adjust, pause, or cancel anytime. HelloFresh’s pricing falls squarely in the middle of similarly priced meal kits.

    Each week, you’ll get to pick your meals from a menu with more than 20 recipes to choose from. There are options for vegetarians, vegans, low-carb and low-calorie diets, and meals that are family-friendly. When choosing your meals, some recipes let you swap ingredients out, such as asparagus for carrots—a feature you won’t find in most other meal kit subscriptions. Meals arrive in an insulated box with ingredients packaged together in paper bags (outside of protein). HelloFresh uses less packaging than some of its competitors—the produce isn’t wrapped in plastic, for example. When it’s time to cook, you can grab your recipe card, your paper bag, and your proteins, and get started.

    Most of the packaging is recyclable, and HelloFresh has made a commitment to offset 100 percent of its carbon. The brand also uses 100 percent renewable electricity.

    Get Cookin’

    HelloFresh recipe cards are full of information. I highly suggest reading them from start to finish—a few times—lest you run the risk of needing to mash your potatoes while you also make a pan sauce, or needing room-temperature butter when all your butter is cold. The time estimates on the card are overly optimistic. I’m a very experienced home chef, and I usually ran at least 10 minutes over what the recipe estimated.

    For this round of testing, I made Prosciutto-Wrapped Chicken, Meatloaves With Creamy Thyme Sauce, and Pan-Seared Steak With Parsley Butter. Every recipe was delicious and easy to make. I’ve had bad experiences with meal kit steak before, but this time around, the steaks were tasty, if weirdly shaped. And even though I’ve cooked a bajillion meals over the span of my life, somehow I’ve never wrapped chicken in prosciutto. I’ll be doing it again!

    I appreciate that the recipe cards have tips, such as when you might want to use compound butter, or that you should arrange vegetables cut-side down on a sheet pan to ensure they get crispy. These sorts of tricks usually come from trial and error. Having them on your recipe card is like having an expert chef peering over your shoulder (without them calling you an idiot sandwich).

    HelloFresh sends you everything you need for each recipe, with a few exceptions. You’ll need to supply your own butter, oil, salt, and pepper. Another thing to note is that sometimes you’ll need specialty hardware, like a zester or a potato masher. And depending on your comfort in the kitchen, you might need to look some things up on YouTube, like how to zest a lemon, or to what temperature to cook a steak if you want it medium-rare.

    Mise en Place

    Generally you’ll want to have a few specific tools. I always use my trusty Kiwi cleaver, which is listed in our Best Chef’s Knives guide. It’s also handy to have a kitchen timer around—I use my Apple Watch or my Google Home. That makes it easier to keep track of what you’re doing, since you’ll often be cooking multiple dishes simultaneously.

    And speaking of multiple dishes, I never learned how dish-averse I was when cooking until I started using meal kits. When it comes to meal kits, if you don’t do your dishes every day, you’re going to be in trouble. There are so many dishes for each recipe! (Note to my future self: Next time make sure your dishwasher is working before calling in a round of these to test.)

    I have one gripe with meal kits in general, which is that you lose out on being able to pick the ingredients yourself. It’s a blessing and a curse. On one hand, I don’t have to go to the grocery store. But on the other, I’m left to cook whatever it is that the service sends—even if my steak is oddly triangular or my lemons are withering, both of which occurred during this testing. The ingredients were still usable, but it is a factor to keep in mind.

    In total, I do believe HelloFresh can be cost-effective, especially given the cost of groceries these days. And while you lose the ability to pick out your own ingredients, meal kits are a great way to make cooking feel less daunting. If you’re cooking for a huge family, or you’re a mega-couponer who wants to buy things in bulk, HelloFresh may not be the best option. But you might love HelloFresh if you routinely get stressed out about what to make for dinner, if you want to order less takeout, or if you—like me—grew up learning to cook for six and now you always make too much food.

    HelloFresh doesn’t have one big wow factor that sets it apart. It’s very run-of-the-mill. And that can be a good thing! If you don’t need all the bells and whistles that come with more specialty meal kits, HelloFresh is a very easy (and tasty) way to take the stress out of cooking.

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  • 6 Best Toasters (2024): Tested and Reviewed

    6 Best Toasters (2024): Tested and Reviewed

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    An essential appliance, the toaster makes breakfast prep easy, adds flair to lunch time sandwiches and takes care of the three billion Pop Tarts we consume each year in America. Let’s face it, few things in life are more delicious than a piece of hot buttered toast, well, apart from maybe toast with eggs, bacon, hash browns and a brew made with one of the best coffee makers. But not all toasters are made equally, which is why we’ve been carb loading in the name of research, so you can get the best for your bread, bagel, muffin or crumpet.

    If perfect toast alone wasn’t a good enough reason to upgrade your toaster, it’s worth noting that toasted bread also comes with health benefits. Studies show that toasted bread has a lower glycemic index compared to bread, in fact. This can mean a slower release of sugar into the bloodstream, provided you go easy on the PB and J.

    The latest toasters do well to accommodate a range of bread types and sizes. Gone are the days when a square loaf was all that was on offer. Tall artisan sourdoughs, soft ciabatta, delicate sprouted whole grains and perfectly formed English muffins can now all be toasted effortlessly. With long and wide toasting slots, good variable temperature ranges and tailored shortcut settings for various bread types, the best toasters will keep us content.

    Check out more of WIRED’s top kitchen tech and accessory guides, including the Best Electric Kettles, Best Chef’s Knives, and the Best Gear for Small Kitchens.

    Power up with unlimited access to WIRED. Get best-in-class reporting that’s too important to ignore for just $2.50 $1 per month for 1 year. Includes unlimited digital access and exclusive subscriber-only content. Subscribe Today.

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  • Why herbs evolved to smell and taste so delicious

    Why herbs evolved to smell and taste so delicious

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    What gives culinary herbs like lavender such strong strong scents and tastes?

    Shutterstock/Kalina Georgieva

    The following is an extract from our nature newsletter Wild Wild Life. Sign up to receive it for free in your inbox every month.

    I’ve completely non-dramatically been referring to this spring and summer as slugmageddon. If you’re a gardener in northern Europe, you probably know what I mean – the mild winter and wet spring has led to staggering numbers of slugs and snails. Every morning I dread looking out the window to discover the night’s damage, and you, like me, may now have a…

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